The Long Drive to Providence

Today’s mission was simple on paper: drive south, past Boston, all the way down to Providence, Rhode Island. In practice, “simple” travel days in New England always seem to involve at least three unplanned detours, and this one was no exception.

After a quick hotel breakfast, we started our long drive..

The long drive south through New England toward Providence, Rhode Island

York Beach: Empty and Perfect

Our first stop was York Beach, a gorgeous stretch of sand that gets absolutely mobbed on sunny summer days. Luckily for us, the weather wasn’t cooperating enough to draw a crowd, which meant we scored easy parking and had the view practically to ourselves.

York Beach, a wide stretch of sand on the southern Maine coast, nearly empty under overcast skies

Sand and surf under grey skies at York Beach in York, Maine

There’s something to be said for a slightly overcast beach day when it means you’re not circling a parking lot for 45 minutes. We snapped a few photos, breathed in the salt air, and moved on.

The quiet shoreline at York Beach on the southern Maine coast

Open sand and overcast sky along York Beach, York, Maine

Nubble Lighthouse and Its Flying Grocery Cart

Next up was the Nubble Lighthouse, officially known as Cape Neddick Light, perched on its own tiny rocky island just 600 feet off the coast. It’s impossibly cute, framed by a scattering of coastal mansions and one of the best photo backdrops in Maine.

Nubble Lighthouse, or Cape Neddick Light, on its rocky island off York, Maine

Cape Neddick Light seen across the channel from the mainland at York, Maine

Here’s the detail that makes this lighthouse genuinely fascinating: since it sits on its own little island with no dock nearby, the lighthouse keepers who lived and worked here for over a century needed a way to get supplies across the water. The solution was an aerial cable car system, essentially a small wooden box suspended on a cable strung between telephone poles on the mainland and the island. It carried groceries, tools, replacement equipment, and, according to local lore, sometimes even the keeper’s own cranky pet cat. There’s a wonderful (if slightly terrifying) old account of the keeper once having to transport a full-size upright refrigerator across the channel this way, by hand, cable car style.

The Nubble lighthouse station and keeper's house on Cape Neddick island, York, Maine

The lighthouse itself was first lit in 1879, was tended by more than a dozen keepers over the decades, and was finally automated in 1987, making it one of the last lighthouses in North America to give up its live-in keeper. The Town of York has owned and maintained it since 1997.

Nubble Lighthouse and its island outbuildings at Cape Neddick, York, Maine

Cape Neddick Light on its rocky outcrop about 600 feet off the Maine coast

We drove around the surrounding neighborhood a bit longer, soaking in more coastal views, before continuing on toward New Hampshire.

Coastal views in the neighborhood around Cape Neddick in York, Maine

A Quick, Charming Stop in Portsmouth

We rolled into Portsmouth, New Hampshire, a genuinely cute town, though a small one. You really only need a couple of hours here to see the highlights.

Downtown Portsmouth, New Hampshire, a compact and walkable New England town

A street in the compact downtown of Portsmouth, New Hampshire

We grabbed coffee and croissants and waited out a rain shower before heading back out to explore on foot.

Coffee and croissants during a rain shower in Portsmouth, New Hampshire

Downtown Portsmouth, New Hampshire, after a passing rain shower

Portsmouth has a great cluster of art galleries scattered through its compact downtown, and Sarah found a lovely local artist selling handmade earrings, which she happily added to her collection.

An art gallery in downtown Portsmouth, New Hampshire

Handmade earrings from a local artist at a Portsmouth, New Hampshire gallery

Artwork on display in a gallery in downtown Portsmouth, New Hampshire

Sarah has a running tradition of buying a pair of earrings on every trip, since they double as both a meaningful souvenir and something she’ll actually wear afterward, unlike, say, a magnet or a shot glass gathering dust in a drawer. Efficient sentimentality at its finest.

Walking through the compact downtown of Portsmouth, New Hampshire

A shopfront in downtown Portsmouth, New Hampshire

We found this funny Tesla with the sticker “I identify as Prius”. It was very very hard to explain the joke to Ariela, so we just changed topic and offered a snack.

A Tesla in Portsmouth, New Hampshire, with a sticker reading 'I identify as Prius'

We enjoyed our short time wandering Portsmouth’s streets, but with the clock ticking and Providence still hours away, we got back on the road.

Providence: Feasting First, Questions Later

After a long stretch of driving, we finally rolled into Providence, and did what any reasonable traveling family does upon arrival: went straight to dinner.

Aleppo Sweets, the Syrian restaurant where the family stopped for dinner in Providence

We found an outstanding Syrian restaurant called Aleppo Sweets, and it did not disappoint. We ordered kibbeh, tabbouleh alongside genuinely world-class hummus, and a Syrian red lentil soup with lemon that none of us had ever tried before. The food was AMAZING and Eitan had the best kibbeh he has ever tried.

A Syrian spread in Providence: kibbeh, tabbouleh, hummus and red lentil soup with lemon

More of the meal at Aleppo Sweets in Providence, Rhode Island

Naturally, we capped off the feast with baklava, because you cannot walk away from a Middle Eastern meal without at least one more bite of honeyed pastry.

We checked into our hotel, the Omni in downtown Providence, to freshen up. It was a perfectly nice hotel, in the sense that it was clearly a very nice hotel roughly 40 years ago, and it has not been shy about showing its age since.

The Omni hotel in downtown Providence, Rhode Island

Inside the Omni hotel in downtown Providence, Rhode Island

The RISD Museum and a 1,800-Year-Old Grudge

After resting for a little bit, we walked over to the Museum of Art at the Rhode Island School of Design (RISD), and got lucky: it happened to be free admission after 5pm that particular day of the week. We took full advantage.

The Museum of Art at the Rhode Island School of Design in Providence

A gallery inside the RISD Museum of Art in Providence, Rhode Island

Artwork on display at the RISD Museum in Providence, Rhode Island

A piece in the collection of the RISD Museum of Art, Providence, Rhode Island

Inside the RISD Museum of Art in Providence, Rhode Island

Ariela gravitated toward the modern art wing and the Egyptian collection, clearly a girl of eclectic taste.

A gallery at the RISD Museum of Art in Providence, Rhode Island

A display at the RISD Museum of Art in Providence, Rhode Island

I feel this is a good time to share one of Ariela’s photos that she has proudly taken.

A photo taken by Ariela with her own camera

Eitan, meanwhile, was completely captivated by the Greek and Roman galleries, which hold some genuinely stunning pieces. The absolute standout: a Roman marble sarcophagus carved with a scene straight out of Book 22 of Homer’s Iliad, showing Achilles dragging the dead body of Hector behind his chariot around the walls of Troy, while Hector’s grieving father King Priam and wife Andromache look on in horror. It’s one of only a small handful of surviving sarcophagi depicting Trojan War scenes anywhere in the world, and this particular one was painstakingly reassembled from over 100 separate fragments before finding its permanent home at the museum back in 1921.

Roman marble sarcophagus at the RISD Museum showing Achilles dragging Hector's body at Troy

The Greek and Roman galleries at the RISD Museum in Providence, Rhode Island

Eitan tried to explain the Trojan war to Ariela, but she was not that interested unfortunately. We are sure Eitan will try again in a few years.

They also had a nice collection of roman and greek coins, and other amazing pieces from other cultures.

Pieces from other cultures in the RISD Museum collection, Providence, Rhode Island

Another work in the RISD Museum collection in Providence, Rhode Island

The museum held plenty of other remarkable pieces beyond that, but once Ariela’s five-year-old museum attention span officially expired, we knew it was time to head out.

Leaving the RISD Museum of Art in Providence, Rhode Island

We walked back to the hotel through pouring rain and collapsed into a well-earned sleep.

Downtown Providence, Rhode Island, on a rainy walk back to the hotel


Next stop on the trip: Mystic, Connecticut. Stay tuned.

Bonus Pic of the Day: The Mini School Buses

All along our drive through this stretch of New England, we kept spotting these vans dressed up like miniature school buses, just built on a much smaller chassis. Our working theory is that some of these smaller, more rural towns simply don’t have enough kids on a given route to justify sending out a full-size bus, so they deploy these compact versions instead. And apparently they’re not just for show: they follow the exact same rules as their full-size cousins, meaning if one of these little vans stops to pick up a kid, you legally cannot pass it. Small bus, same authority.

One of the van-sized mini school buses seen on roads across New England

2nd Bonus Pic of the Day:

This building in Providence looked very familiar to me. Popularly known as the “Superman Building” because of its resemblance to the iconic Daily Planet building, the Industrial Trust Co. Building is the tallest — at 428 feet tall — and the most iconic in the Providence skyline.

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