Oaxaca – The Hip Neighborhoods

Today was another day of exploring the city of Oaxaca and its’ neighborhoods. After yesterday’s long tour, we just wanted to take it easy and walk around the other attractions we wanted to see.

Walking past vendors of crickets is not unusual, as these are eaten as a snack by vendors. They have different flavors, like chili lime, salt, etc.. for any taste.

Our first stop was to visit the Aqueduct of Xochimilco, also knows as Los Arquitos (The little arches).

This is a historic aqueduct built in the 18th century to supply water to the city. It features a series of elegant stone arches that run along Callejón Rufino Tamayo in the Xochimilco neighborhood.

Today, the aqueduct no longer serves its original purpose but remains a picturesque landmark. Many of the arches have been integrated into homes, cafes, and shops, adding a unique charm to the area.

It’s a popular spot for strolling and photography, especially because of its blend of history and modern use.

The green tint in the rocks used in many walls and buildings in Oaxaca, particularly in the historic center, comes from the local cantera stone. The green color comes from minerals like chlorite and other iron and magnesium silicates present in the stone.

We continued walking around the colorful neighborhood of Xochimilco in the north part of the city.

Xochimilco is believed to have been established as a pre-Hispanic settlement before becoming one of the city’s first Spanish neighborhoods.

The name “Xochimilco” comes from Nahuatl, meaning “place of the flower fields.

Galleries, workshops, and street art are common, reflecting the neighborhood’s creative energy.

It was very quiet when we got there. We stopped at a couple stores while Ariela was asleep. Not sure how she could nap in the stroller with all the cobblestone street bumpiness.

We started our walk back to the city center to be able to get to our next restaurant, which we had a reservation made a few days ago. Little did we know we were in for a treat and how lucky we were to have gotten that reservation.

We were back a bit early, so we stopped at a rooftop bar to get a nice mezcal drink before lunch but Ariela was upset about something and had a tantrum, so Sarah ended up getting to spend most of the time drinking alone as Eitan left the restaurant to calm Ariela.

The restaurant was called “Los Danzantes”, and it was by far the best meal we had in Oaxaca. We got a Hoja Santa filled with goat cheese and green mole, a Ancho Chile filled with Huitlacoche, an incredible wild herb soup, and an authentically local fettuccini alfredo for Ariela.

Ariela was very happy and also agreed this was the best meal.

We also got her a nice birthday dessert of Mango and Coconut ice-cream.

After lunch, we tried to get into the Botanical gardens, but they only offer tours, so we skipped it. We were able to see a glimpse from the back of the gardens. Did not look that great, so Eitan survived his FOMO.

We continued our walk around the Cathedral and noticed they were having a wedding there. We spent a few minutes taking photos and enjoying the people watching.

Chinas Oaxaqueñas, which are the women dressed in traditional Oaxacan attire, often carrying baskets adorned with flowers or candles on their heads, participate in the wedding events.

We walked toward the temple of San Matias Jalatlalco. It was located in another cute neighborhood east of downtown.

This neighborhood was a little bit more developed and lively. It originally served as a community for artisans and laborers during the colonial period

It also had amazing graffiti.

The neighborhood often hosts cultural events, including celebrations for Día de Muertos (Day of the Dead), when it becomes a hub of activity and decoration.

Ariela was in a super good mood just playing around.

We finally reached the temple. Dedicated to San Matías, one of the apostles of Jesus, it plays an important role in local religious celebration.

We found a free public playground full of rainbow colors. While Ariela was getting ready to go in, we found an exposed rusty nail on the floor next to the trampoline. Being the helicopter parents that we are, decided to then skip this as we did not want to go get another tetanus shot for Ariela right now.

We stopped at a little mezcal tasting room for Eitan to do a Tasting. Sarah can’t handle the flavor of Mezcal, so she sat down with Ariela to do some art and crafts while Eitan learned about the types and history of Mezcal.

We ended up back in the main plaza. Ariela was dancing and very happy.

Weddings in Oaxaca are known for their vibrant, joyful celebrations that often spill out into the streets in the form of a calenda, a traditional Oaxacan parade. These festivities are a unique blend of indigenous and colonial traditions, and the inclusion of giant marionettes (called mojigangas) is one of the most iconic features.

The mojigangas are papier-mâché figures, often representing the bride and groom or other symbolic characters.

Our last stop was a nice Atoleria, which is similar to a bar but they only serve Atole.

Atole is a traditional Mexican drink made from masa (corn dough or corn flour), water or milk, and sweetened with sugar. It is thick, warm, and comforting, often flavored with ingredients like cinnamon, vanilla, or chocolate. We got a nice flight of 4 flavors to try. They were all really good!

Bonus of the Day:

While locals benefit from tourism, some are angry at the tourists and most importantly the ex-pats that have increased the cost of living of the locals. Here is a graffiti we found while walking in downtown.

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